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Writer's pictureCatherine Lio

Brasserie Georges: A Timeless Culinary Must When In Lyon

€30–40 Brasserie


The front interior of Brasserie Geoges in Lyon

About Brasserie Georges


Since its establishment in 1836, Brasserie Georges has enjoyed immense popularity, attracting notable figures like Alphonse de Lamartine. Interestingly, records from 1857 indicate that the esteemed French writer still owed 40 francs to the establishment. Over the years, Brasserie Georges has welcomed many renowned personalities, including Paul Verlaine, Jules Verne, Utrillo, Jongkind, the Lumière brothers, Edouard Herriot, Mistinguett, Léon Blum, Emile Zola, and Rodin. The seats bear commemorative plaques to honor the visits of these esteemed public figures.

1836 - Brasserie Georges founded by Alsation George Hoffherr in Perrache marsh. Unique building with 710 M2 ceiling supported by three massive pine beams.

1838 - Lyon boasts over 20 brasseries, but Georges Brown ale gains fame and success.

1857 - Perrache railway station opens near the restaurant.

1873 - George Hoffherr passes; his son takes over, opening 4 other brasseries in Lyon: Dupuis, Thomassin, Du Parc, and Cafe Bellecour.

1924 - Brasserie Georges renovated in Art Deco style with magnificent chandeliers. Lyon Painter Bruno Francisque Guillermin creates frescos on the ceiling, depicting themes of Harvest, grapes, water, and beer.

1937 - Economic hardship impacts Brasserie Georges; only 4 brasseries in Lyon remain operational.

After the War, Brasserie Georges sees booming success, and various renovations. Despite all the time that has gone by, with new generations of the family taking over, Brasserie Georges is able to remain true to its Alsatian roots to this day.


Panelled Bar inside the Brasserie Georges in Lyon

Location


The city of Lyon is south east of Paris and just north of Marseille is divided into 9 arrondissements. The district known as Perrache is located within Lyon's vibrant 2nd of these arrondissement. Situated between the Rhone and Saône rivers, the 2nd is renowned for its commercial vitality.

Perrache quarter, positioned at the southernmost tip of the Presqu’Ile, is bordered by the Ainay quarter. Named after Michel-Antoine Perrache, the area underwent significant modifications in the early 19th century to shift the confluence southwards. This transformation, initiated between 1809 and 1814, reached completion by 1840, culminating in the establishment of the historic Perrache train station, one of France's earliest railway stations.

We Stayed in the Hôtel Mercure Lyon Centre Château Perrache, which is just outside the Peraache Railway and Metro Stations, a beautiful and affordable hotel with easy access to anywhere in Lyon by Metro and only a 6 minute walk to Brasserie Georges.


Ambiance


We had arrived in Lyon early in the afternoon from Paris. We took the Frecciarossa, an Italian high speed train service that connects Gare de Lyon with Italy with a few stops in France to connect them. The train ride was a lovely experience and highly relaxing as we relaxed in their highly affordable quiet carriage. We were given a lovely snack box in our seat, with an Italian style croissant, reminiscent of every breakfast I've had in Italy. I had been a bit under the weather, and my friend had not slept the previous night as she had stayed up all night reading Rebecca Yarros' Fourth Wing, and so we both decided to stay close to the hotel so that we could have an early night in. Her sister had recommended Brasserie Georges to us as a must during our visit and since it was a short 6 minute walk away from our hotel.

After a long first day of travelling and exploring the city we made our way to Brasserie Georges. Upon entering, we were shocked by the sheer size and length of the restaurant. There were rows or red booths, tiled flooring, and large mirrors adorning the walls. Servers in white button up shirts and black vests ran around with towers of cups and and silver platters holding more dishes than you would thing possible. There was something about this restaurant that reminded me of David Suchet's Poirot and Eren Morgensterns The Night Circus. The Art deco interior transports you to another time, and the expertise and efficiency of their wait staff added elements of magic.


They had a panelled bar and small seating area to the right of the entrance for those waiting for a seat, and there we waited for 15 minutes for an available table. We were sat in a small booth meant for two, in the middle of one of their many aisles. We were handed a menus, bound in a beautiful dark red, with a gold st. George killing a dragon above the Restaurants name. The menu is quite extensive, so it might take some time to go through it all and decide, but they had a variety of Alsatian dishes, an area bordering France and Germany, with influences of both cultures, as well as a variety of classic dishes from french and Lyonnaise cuisine. Once we made our order, we were brought a clay jar fulled with pickles and a small basket of bread. The pickles were delightful and a great way to add probiotics, a bacteria beneficial to your digestive system

What we ordered


French Onion Soup at Brasserie Georges in Lyon

French Onion Soup and Salad


I was feeling a bit under the weather so I opted for French Onion Soup, and a salad. I wasn't terrible hungry and I felt a soup would be the perfect remedy. The soup came promptly and within it the same bread used as the ones given to us in the basket. The broth was quite good and the cheese nicely melted, it was definitely what I needed that night and soothed the exhaustion looming over me from our busy day. I ate the salad next, it was quite simple and reminiscent of the salads I eat nearly daily at home, it was made up of a simple green leaf, tomatoes, red onions and a light vinaigrette that was perfectly refreshing after the soup.


Menu Lyonnais Set Menu €26


My friend opted for one of their set menu options. Her first dish was a Terrine of Chicken Liver with Porto, I tried a small piece of it, it found it a bid to rich for my taste and after have Brasserie Dubillots Terrine de Campagne (a pork based terrine) in Paris, my expectations were quite high. I do know it is unfair to compare, chicken liver and pork marinated in cognac - but in terms of terrines go, Brasserie Dubillot currently holds my top spot for it to date.

Her next dish in her set menu was the Local Pork and Pistachio Sausage in a White Wine Sauce served with Mashed Potatoes. I of course had to try another bite of her meal and the sausage was delightful and I eveen wished I was well enough to eat more than just a soup and salad and have my own. However. she found that the sausage in combination with the Terrine was incredibly rich in flavour and in texture for which she had more pickles to balance it out or had picked another option like the Oeuf Poché, a poached egg with mixed vegetables and grilled bacon as an alternative starter. She had opted for the cheese option for dessert.

Red booth and half eaten dishes at Brasserie Georges in Lyon

However it was at this point where the evening took a bit of a turn. There must have been a change in wait staff for our section or some confusion, but the last course never came and we waited quite a long time, perhaps around an hour for any sort of a sign of our waiter. No one came to our table and she was incredibly full from the terrine and sausage that we decided to call over a waiter in another section for our bill. That final part of the meal was a bit disappointing, however the atmosphere and the food we did get to sample was quite good and I believe for the ambiance and having the chance to experience magic realism that is Brasserie Georges, that it is definitely worth a try and I will definitely be back to give it a second chance.



Map on how to get to Brasserie Georges in Lyon



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